Sunday, June 13, 2010

Europe 2010, Part 3

We (David) decided we should see Monaco. Here's what I know of Monaco.

1. James Bond likes to gamble in Monte Carlo.

2. They have the Grand Prix race here.

3. Grace Kelly married Prince Rainier.

Since then I've learned that Monaco has a population of 30,000, only 10,000 of which are native. The rest are extremely rich people that have residences here so that they don't have to pay taxes. The population doesn't sound too terribly high until you think about the fact that the country comprises about two square kilometers and you could walk across the entire country in under an hour. When you think about that, 30,000 is a lot of people to pack into so small a space.

We took the bus to Monaco based on the advice of Rick Steves. According to him, you could take the train from Nice and get there in about 20 minutes for approximately six euros. Or you could take the bus for one euro. The bus trip takes an hour, but unlike the train that spends most of its time in tunnels, the bus follows the lower corniche road, and you can see all the sights. Because we're cheap, and because we preferred to look at the Mediterranean and all the charming villages along the way, we took the bus.

I don't have any pictures to show you of our bus trip for two reasons.
1. Pictures taken from a moving bus are inevitably blurry.

2. The pictures I did take on my camera are lost forever because I left it on the bus. I didn't discover this fact until we had exited the bus and climbed the hill to the palace. Thank goodness David had bought his very own camera just before the trip, which he wisely refused to let me borrow.

Here we are at the top of the hill, in front of the palace overlooking the port.



Monaco is kind of strange. It reminds me a little bit of San Francisco, believe it or not. It has a bustling port and it built on hills. It also has the mix of old and new, skyscrapers next to old homes.


But unlike San Francisco, it doesn't feel very, I don't know, I guess authentic is the word I would use. It's too clean. The streets with the old-fashioned residences look like nobody actually lives there. It's very Disneyesque in look and feel.



It certainly didn't feel as welcoming as Nice. But then, I'm not a millionaire.

Ian and Fabio, our lunch companions of the day before, had recommended we visit the Jacques Cousteau Aquarium, so we did. It had pretty fish to look at.


In addition to that, the museum had exhibits devoted to 19th century history of scientific thought. They had a timeline that included mostly French and American discoveries, although I found it odd that they thought it necessary to include Custer's last stand. They also had a giant sculpture that showed a human's insides.


It was beyond a doubt the strangest aquarium I've ever been to in my life. Highly entertaining.

We then hopped a bus and headed down toward the casino and lunch. Ian and Fabio had also given us a lunch recommendation, the Café de Paris.


And not knowing anywhere else to go we decided to try it. That was one of the best decisions ever. While we were contemplating the menu, I saw the dessert the gentleman next to us had ordered. It was the most amazing confection of strawberries, gelato, and whipped cream I had ever seen. While I rarely make food decisions based on what I'm going to have for dessert, I made an exception in this case. I immediately modified my lunch selection to something light so that I would have more than enough room to indulge.

Unfortunately, there are no pictures of what this dessert looked like, because when it came I fell into it face first and inhaled. David was lucky to get one spoonful. But here is a picture of me after I had finished it. And yes, I ate every bite. The only reason I didn't lick the plate clean was because I was afraid they might escort me out of the restaurant before I was ready to go. Truly, in a vacation filled with wonderful food, this took the cake, so to speak.


The café was next door to the casino, so we strolled over after lunch.


We didn't see much of the inside as you're not allowed in the salon unless you have paid an entrance fee (yes, they charge a fee for the privilege of losing more money gambling) and are wearing a suit and tie. So we amused ourselves looking at the cars parked in front of the casino -- a Ferrari, a Lamborghini, and a Rolls Royce -- and watching other tourists have their pictures taken next to these cars they didn't own.


We had missed the Grand Prix by about three days, but the stands were still up. So I sat in the stands --


-- while David took photos of tire marks from the cars racing through in front of the casino. David insisted he had to get this picture for our friend, Doug, who loves Formula 1 racing.


After that, we decided to take the train back to Nice. This is the view from just outside the train station.


Later that evening, still full from lunch, we decided to return to the Cours Saleya and have a drink while people-watching. We sat across from the "American Bar" where all the waiters wore jeans and cowboy hats.



Always a pleasure to see Americans aren't the only ones that stereotype other nationalities. In addition to watching people, we also watched the moon rise.



Then we headed back to our room to prepare for our first day of hiking.

The Calvinland Bee

A conversation between my seven-year-old son and me.

C: I think it's time I start my own newspaper. I'm going to call it The Calvinland Bee.

Me: I see. And how did you come up with that name?

C: Like our local paper, The Sacramento Bee.

Me: I'm well aware of what our local paper is called. I just didn't know you knew.

C: Oh, yes. I like the comics. Also, sometimes they have interesting articles, like the one about big slugs.

Friday, June 11, 2010

Ice cream. We're gonna have ice cream.

Sabrina asked if she could have ice cream after dinner. I said sure, why not? She then announced this fact to the other munchkins. Rose, calling shotgun, immediately said, "I want mint chip." Mint chip and vanilla were the options.

Sabrina got out her bowl and the ice cream scooper and then the carton of mint chip, which, upon opening, revealed about one bowl's worth of ice cream. She and Rose looked into the almost empty container and started the following "conversation." Calvin and I sat back on the couch to watch the entertainment.

R: I called mint chip.

S: But I don't like vanilla.

R: But I called it.

S: But I don't like vanilla. (grabs the carton) I don't like vanilla!

R: But -- (grabs the carton back)

S: I don't like vanilla!! (more grabbing)

R: Sabrina!

S: I DON'T LIKE VANILLA!!!

R: I get it! You don't like vanilla. You don't like vanilla. You don't like vanilla! You don't like vanilla!! YOU DON'T LIKE VANILLA!!!

Thereafter we were treated to incoherent screaming and some impressive physical contact. I decided to call an end to the show and sent the girls to their rooms. Later, as Calvin and I ate our ice cream in peace --

C: You know what's weird about that, mom?

Me: No, what?

C: Everybody knows Sabrina likes vanilla.

Thursday, June 10, 2010

Europe 2010, Part 2

On our first full day in Nice, David went for a long run at an ungodly hour, and I slept in. We then took a short walk. This is outside our hotel, walking to breakfast.


And here's our view while we enjoyed our pain au chocolat and coffee.


Our hotel is on the other side of that hill. We discussed visiting a museum -- there's a surprising number in Nice -- and decided to visit the museum of contemporary art over the Matisse or Chagall museums because (1) it was close, and (2) it was free. Art connoisseurs, that's what we are.

This was a sculpture outside the museum. It amused me.


The museum included rooftop exhibits, most of which included the gorgeous views.





I especially liked this mirrored piece where you see part of the city reflected.



We left the museum and wandered around, saw a pretty fountain.


And pretty houses.


Our house is almost that exact pink color. I always thought the builders were weird to paint our house pink. Who has a pink house? Apparently every other person in Nice. It is one of the most popular colors. Now I know I just need to get shutters and paint them green.

By then we had whiled away a few hours and started feeling like maybe we needed something more than a croissant and coffee. We considered this place --


-- but decided against it when we couldn't figure out what meal that might be. I know what brunch is (breakfast/lunch) and I know what linner is (lunch/dinner), but flunch left me confused.

We decided to pick a restaurant in the Cours Saleya, which is a street just behind the Promenade.


Our hotel is just out of sight on the far right.

In the morning this long street holds one of the biggest flower markets in southern France. Around noon, the flower merchants start clearing out, and the restaurants put out all their tables and chairs.

We picked a restaurant at random, mostly because they had one of the only free tables on the whole street. After we were seated, we perused the menu and ordered our meal. The two French men sitting next to us struck up what would be the first of many tableside conversations with strangers. They asked if we were British. I don't know what tipped them onto the fact that we were foreigners. Maybe it was because we had to point at the menu to help the waitress completely understand our selections. Or perhaps it was the fact that David would throw in an occasional Japanese word when finger pointing failed.

Very charming (although smoking incessantly), they gave us their unfinished bottle of wine insisting that they wouldn't finish it themselves, and it was a crime to let it go to waste. I probably didn't protest as much as I should have. Introductions ensued, and we learned that our dining companions were Ian and Fabio, although I was a mite suspicious of this since they had to look at each other and confirm that these were indeed their names.

They asked what our plans were over the next few days and encouraged us to visit Monaco. After we mentioned that Monaco was indeed on the agenda for the next day, they asked if we would like to go boating. Ian (or was it Fabio?) gave us his card (which had the name Nicholas on it, by the way) in case we decided we were in the market for purchasing or renting a boat. They departed soon afterwards, giving us a suggestion for lunch in Monaco and also insisting that if we happened to see them again during our visit we must sit down and have a drink with them.

Our bellies full with a delicious lunch and fabulous wine, we decided to climb the hill behind our hotel next. It's called Castle Hill, and has steps to take you to the top. How hard can it be, I thought? The answer -- pretty hard. I stopped to rest here on the pretext that I was admiring the amazing view.



The next time I stopped was about halfway up (the hill is higher than it looks, I swear). My excuse this time was that I wanted to listen to the accordion player that was on a viewing terrace. (Music to climb by.) As we neared the top of the hill, I started getting passed by elderly people, which was really embarrassing. We finally got to the top, and I leaned against the balustrade panting while David took lovely pictures.



We decided to go down the other side of the hill and walk back around through the city streets to our hotel. As we started down the backside of Castle Hill I saw the tourist train, filled with around 200 elderly people, starting to motor back down. That explained a lot and made me feel much better about my performance, although it was still admittedly on the pathetic side. (Note to self: don't eat a heavy lunch and drink a bottle of wine before hiking.)

Feeling mighty pleased with ourselves, we bought a bottle of wine, a baguette, and some snacks and headed back to our room to enjoy the beautiful sunset.






Sunday, June 6, 2010

What Did You Say?

Unfortunately for my children, it looks like they have inherited the gene from my side of the family that makes it impossible to sit through a movie or TV show without talking incessantly. (I'm sure invitations to movies with friends are winging their way towards me even now!)

Ironically, the children talking nonstop irritates me to no end. This is because they don't seem to understand that I am the only one allowed to talk during shows. How dare they interrupt when I was about to do so! So I often absent myself to another room when the TV goes on.

Right now I'm sitting up here trying to work, and the volume of the TV is slowly getting louder and louder. I'm pretty sure it's not because we're getting close to an action scene, but because David is trying to ignore the fact that Sabrina won't shut up. Then the sound stops abruptly, and I hear this:

D: Are you going to be quiet anytime soon?

S: I only have one three-second thing to say.

D: But you've been talking nonstop for 10 minutes now!

S: That's because you won't listen!

D: We're watching a movie! (As if that explains anything to this gene-damaged kid.)

S: But it's only three seconds!

D: I don't want to hear it, though.

S: Argh!

D: I agree.

S: I'm serious!

D: So am I!

S: ARRGH!

D: Exactly.

Then the movie starts up again, and . . . yup, there she goes again.

Thursday, June 3, 2010

Europe 2010, Part 1

"Let's start at the very beginning, a very good place to start . . . "

I thought it was appropriate to begin with lyrics from The Sound of Music since another song from that musical, Climb Every Mountain, spent an inordinate amount of time running through my head during this vacation. I now hate that song.

I was going to show pictures of me and David while waiting at SFO for our flight. We were still in good spirits, having not yet met the extremely small space we would be spending the next 12 hours of our lives. But those pictures were on my camera which I lost three days into our trip, continuing a long and illustrious Sedivy family tradition of either forgetting to bring a camera or forgetting to use one you've brought. I just put a new twist on this familial institution, that of using it, then losing it. Luckily, I had the backup of David and his camera (which he in his wisdom rarely let me touch). Otherwise you'd be getting stick figure drawings of my impressions of our trip.

Here's our plane. It continually astounds me that a behemoth like that can get off the ground.


I wasn't actually going to spend time talking about our flight over the pond. What is there to say really? Small space, bad food, long time in air. But the quality of entertainment provided by British Airways proved such that some things needed to be shared.

Act One involved three big, young British fellows traveling together, sitting in the seats behind us. I was afraid at first that I would spend the flight suffering from knee-itis. I was not thrilled at the prospect of having the person behind me constantly banging into my seat. I needn't have worried, however. Having my seat prodded and poked would have required these young gentlemen to actually stay in their seats. They opted instead to spend a good portion of the flight in the aisle, heartily availing themselves of the free drinks on international flights. Good-natured, but becoming increasingly louder as the flight went by, they were even able to penetrate the haze of my Dramamine-induced stupor.

Act Two consisted of the reading light above me switching on and off, on and off, on and off. Apparently, in the recent past some ergonomics genius at the airline decided that the best place to put all the buttons to control lights, volume, channel changer, etc., was on TOP of the arm rest. The gentleman seated next to me, not realizing his arm rest was not to be used for actually resting his arm, did exactly that. It took me a while, due to the aforementioned stupor, to realize that it was not gremlins tampering with my light, but an elbow.

Act Three was on our second flight from London to Nice. Three young ladies who looked like real-life Barbie dolls seated themselves in front of us. They asked very prettily if the flight attendant would take their picture and proceeded to chatter quite loudly about how tiresome it was for boys to expect them to answer every single post on their Facebook wall. They, too, imbibed quite freely. Then, one of them declared she "must have moisturizer right this second," and proceeded to hike her dress up all the way to "there" so she could slather on her lotion. Her thighs must have been especially dry as she gave them particular attention. I told David he could have had entirely different scenery had he not chosen the window seat.

We finally landed in Nice, and we figured out we could get most of the way to our hotel via bus, so I hesitantly purchased tickets in French. We found our hotel, and emboldened by my success in buying bus tickets in a language not my own, I launched into French at the hotel, too. Nous avons une reservation.

Whoops. This released a torrent of French that left me dumbfounded. I caught enough words to vaguely understand the receptionist was asking for our name, credit card, and passports. She then mentioned something about breakfast. I got that it started at 7 a.m. but not when it ended, or how much it cost. I heard the number 14, but didn't know what it referred to. Obviously not the time breakfast ended.

And it was at this point that what little French I knew deserted me completely. I couldn't even remember how to say, "I don't understand," or, "Please speak more slowly." No, I just stood there staring like an idiot. For all I know, there might have been drool on my face left over from what little sleep I did get on the plane. I stood there staring helplessly while David made helpful little comments like, "What was that? What's she saying? Why are you drooling?"

The receptionist took pity on me and asked, in very good English, "Did you understand?" Galvanized by hearing my own language, I rushed to my own defense and repeated what I did know. She then filled me in on what I had missed. Turns out 14 was our room number.

We went up to our room. It was utterly lovely with floor-to-ceiling windows, a charming balcony with seating for two and a view overlooking the famous Promenade des Anglais. I guess those hours I spent ruining my eyesight reading review after review on Trip Advisor weren't wasted after all. After that, I vaguely remember venturing out to find a small restaurant somewhere to eat dinner, and then falling into bed and sleeping for more hours at one stretch than I have in months.

Here are pictures of our hotel and the view from our balcony.


Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Europe 2010 Summary

Number of times my high school French was actually useful: 5
Number of French phrases David learned: 2 (Both involving beer)
Number of beers consumed by David: 38
Alps climbed: All of them, I swear (some more than once)
Miles hiked: 50
Falls with skinned knees: 1
Times we got lost: 2
Crying fits: 4
Sweat produced: Buckets
Pounds lost: 5
Number of goats in herd that tried to run us off the road: 50
Number of dogs shepherding the goats: 2
Number of people shepherding goats: 0
Number of people who thought we were British: 70
Number of actual British people we met: 4
Number of yachts offered up for sale to us: 1
Number of gigantor Twix found: 1 (seriously, this thing was HUGE)
Cameras lost: 1
Books read: 5
Wineries found: 0
Ecstatic husband: 1
Trip of a lifetime with my beloved: Priceless